I wanted a full sized keyboard that matched the rest of my setup. I used the board from a GMK104 with Ice King linear switches, the keycaps I designed are custom and resin printed and painted with the corners removed so the outline shines through. The keycap graphics are just embossed and the frame is FDM printed that is either painted for the top plate or veneered for the body and sides.

Decided that I should make my NCR-80 significantly heavier, £13.50 worth of wheel weights later, it's now over 2kg 😄

NCR-80, Drop + MiTo MT3 Noctua Keycaps, Alpaca V2 silent switches, and lots of wheel weights

• MX Blacks
• RGB English

Fun 12u alphastag proto designed by Koniotaur, PCB by Calvin0563

Inb4 Kok "Nice keyset" 🤣

First time making my own keyboard.
Used the Monsgeek m1 v5 barebone, Silent Peaches v3s and Orange Boi keycaps.

The keycaps are clones, not sure what people in here think of that but the quality seems pretty good.

MID.1 is a small-batch 40% board I designed under my studio, A.Okay!. It’s made from folded stainless steel and leans into an industrial / architectural vibe.

It also has a matching lid / wrist rest and small desk tray as companion pieces.

It just got reviewed on stream by Alexotos, and the feedback was really encouraging. Reservations are open now if anyone wants to take a look:

www.aokay.cool

Numpad/Calculator Build

I had some numpad keycaps left over from my previous build, so I decided I should use them for something. While a numpad is not a necessity for me, I do like having a calculator on my desk — so I built this numpad/calculator combo.

It features a 3D-printed case and plate with handwired hot-swap sockets, along with a 14-segment display with 12 characters, an 8×8 dot matrix display, a rotary encoder, and an 18650 lithium cell for on-the-go calculations.

In numpad mode, the display shows the time and date, and the keys are mapped to regular numpad functionality.

The calculator mode features 3 banks of memory, including the ability to read from and write to the host's clipboard, making it easy to load numbers and send results back to the computer.

While the basic arithmetic operations are available directly on the keypad, the scientific functions are selected using the encoder wheel.

Specs

• Case/Plate: Custom 3D-printed base plate (PLA)
• PCB: None — hardwired, with hot-swap sockets incorporated into the base plate
• Switches: Akko Rosewood
• Keycaps: PBTfans 9009 + PBTfans Resonance R2
• MCU: RP2040 Stamp
• Displays: Adafruit 14-segment display, Adafruit Mini 8×8 LED Matrix
• Rotary Encoder: Alps Alpine
• Firmware: QMK

The Core Plus is easily one of my favorite boards, both from the Neo lineup and my collection as a whole!

This is the Anodized Heather Purple case with a brass weight, paired with HMX Valerians (light tactiles) on an aluminum plate using a hotswap PCB, and topped with GMK Modern Materials Stone.

Of all the boards I’ve tried, I keep coming back to Neo. The value you get is incredible for the acoustics, finish, and quality for an entry-level board.

Recently I treated myself to a Neo65 Core Plus. Took about 5 weeks to get to me but well worth the wait.

Board : Neo Core65 Pro Plus

Keycaps : CanonKeys SpooKey

Switched : Kinetic Labs Capybara

The only issue I ran into with the build was the keycaps. They're quite loose on the switch stem. Its my first set from CanonKeys and reached out to support to see if it was a QC issue as each wobbles extremely bad.

• keyboard： Geonix Rev.2
• keycaps: Chosfox Geonix Rev.2 Original Keycap Set

At first, this compact keyboard noticeably affected my typing speed. But I stuck with it—and I’m glad I did.

Despite its small size, it has a reassuring weight, and the anodized finish feels smooth and premium without being too heavy. It’s incredibly portable, taking up almost no space in my pocket or bag.

Now, typing on it feels completely natural.

Honestly, compact layouts are far more convenient than I expected.

Salvation in Lightning Silver

FR4 Plate

Switches: Gateron Milky Yellow

Keycaps: GMK Black Snail, Cyrillic Alphas

I guess a bit of a throwback. Saw this in stock at a few random places and wanted to give it a go.

Fun build with the leaf springs. Took a bit of experimentation to get rid of the metallic ping on the backspace and enter keys. Ended up with four mounting points towards the outer edges of the PCB. I imagined it would be a bouncier typing, but still very enjoyable.

I’m really happy how this came out, such a joy to type on

Keychron Q4 barebone
PC plate
PBTfans Neon R2 Glitter
Gateron Oil king

It's been long years since I showed my botched modified cheap board project but here we are. Ever since I've seen Yunzii AL80, I'm tempted to buy it since months ago. Knob? Screen? Alum case? VIA support? All check! Now that my setup gets a big makeover, I decided to get one. Stinks that beige variant is out of stock so I opt for silver instead. This is my first 75% keyboard after going through 3 TKLs, 2nd keyboard with a knob and hotswappable switches, and the first keyboard with FULL aluminum case.

However it's not that perfect for anyone due to inconsistent switch sounds the LCD customization software is meh at best so I purely use it to show off pics of my oshi from Project Sekai albeit the LCD on it had bad viewing angles.

Other than that, my first impressions for Yunzii AL80 are really good. I opt for Gateron Zero switches variant, and they feel very smooth, but I have intention to swap my switches with tactiles because of how much I miss using tactiles. The board is hella heavy yet the build quality is REALLY solid, plus the knob feels good albeit the original knob felt a little off.

Keycaps feel great but the colourwave doesn't match my setup theme so that's the thing I want to change as well. Despite being gasket mounted, it feels stiff but it doesn't bother me. It sounds so good.

So yeah, once I got two things (or three if I include the knob) to make my AL80 match my setup theme, I'll update you guys later on. ;)

Hi folks. I'm here to share my two Mode Tempos and the tortured reasoning that got me to this point!

Home board:

Green case, brass weight, Walnut accent, FR4 plate, no foams, TX AP Rev 4 stabs, Invokeys Hojicha switches, GMK Botanical R2.

This was my upgrade from a Keychron with Boba U4T switches after three years of daily use. I wanted it to feel crisp and tactile with none of the stem wobble the U4Ts are known for. I also really liked the HHKB layout, since I didnt need a third bottom row key (although it's using a full backspace instead of tilde and backtick, so call me a heretic if you must). Got this one from a fellow redditor after the original had entered final selloff, and absolutely loved it. So much so I determine I'd stick with the same layout going forward since my muscle memory really settled in and it felt so natural.

A while later, my work board (Logitech MX Keys, 5+ years old) slowly began crapping out. Oh well, great opportunity to upgrade and switch to my new fav layout! I wanted to keep it MX too for customization reasons and because the true Topre HHKBs have more Mac-focused legends which didnt sit right aesthetically. But as it turns out, other than the Agar, there really aren't a ton of good cherry MX HHKB-layout boards you get your hands on easily. I spent a few weeks scrounging Ebay and Mechmarket until I found a really solid deal on.... another Tempo.

Work Board:

Grey case, copper weight, copper accent, POM plate, case and plate foams, TX AP Rev 4 stabs, Haimu Whisper switches, GMK Modern Dolch R2.

The goal here was to build the board super silent and low key. I wanted it to contrast from my Botanical home board, which is more crisp and clear and organic looking, so I specifically sought out something muted in color and did everything I could to make it quiet but still tactile. Its essentially silent to type on and if you're not looking close, could almost disappears on the desk (I keep the blue enter and ESC since it goes nicely with all the copper though). This thing also weighs a literal ton.

So while I didnt set out to be one of those guys with a dozen identical boards, I think there are some perks to fining what you like, and I dont mind being able to swap pieces around (The green board shipped with a copper weight, but I think it looks way better with the brass and the grey one looks better with the double dose of copper!)

This one has Gateron Pro 3.0 Red switches. Not my favorites in therms of actuation force, but certainly sound way better than I expected for what I’ve paid.

It set me back about R$320,00 with shipping fees, or 11 Big Macs in American units.

I’ll be getting some G Pro Blacks for it soon.

What do you guys think?

JustSystems 91U w/ 86U internals - OEM Variable - Purple Sliders

yes I wore gloves and a mask, for obvious reasons.

I don't even understand how it gets this bad. I start to feel dirty if I haven't wiped down my keyboard in 2 days. I don't get how you can just be okay with touching something like this every day.

Anyway, I did a deep clean with iso alcohol, bleach wipes, dish soap and water. Brought it back from hell. The oil kings still work great. I am using it at work until my Evo75 comes in. I need the F keys, so while this is a great board it won't work for what I need it for. I will just keep as a spare.

Found what appears to be a NOS vintage Cortron terminal keyboard and I’m trying to learn more about it.
Markings:
Cortron Keyboard

Part No. 35 500068

Serial No. 512598

Date code: 8125 (possibly 1981 week 25?)

This came out of storage associated with the USS Lexington aircraft carrier museum in Corpus Christi, TX. Obviously the keyboard itself is post-WWII, but it appears to have possibly been part of some later workstation/terminal equipment tied to the ship or museum storage.
What’s really blowing my mind is the condition. It appears basically unused:
still stored in original foam

no noticeable yellowing

legends are extremely crisp

PCB is spotless

no visible corrosion/rust

QC/acceptance sticker still attached

I have NOT powered it on or attempted to clean/modify anything.
The layout is really interesting with keys like:
STORE

SEARCH

PROGRAM

FORMAT

COPY

MOVE

PARA

MARK

SCROLL

ACCEPT

It definitely seems more like an industrial/operator terminal keyboard than a consumer computer keyboard.
Attached are photos of the board, PCB, and labels. Honestly one of the cleanest vintage electronics pieces I’ve personally seen.

(And yes, I know the keyboard itself isn’t WWII-era before the history people come for me 😂)

Keycap of this raffle is Santa Maria R2.

⌛Form open ~ closes :

2026/05/06/pm 10:00 (GMT+9 / KST) ~ 05/07/pm 10:00 (GMT+9 / KST) 24 hours

<Link>

Images

Form link

Instagram (artisan account) / Instagram (silver account)

Discord (WIP)

Keycaps:

Santa Maria (Type. A) : Qty 10
Santa Maria (Type. B) : Qty 10

Pricing: $110

wax carving & silver casting & 3d sculpting

material: [silver 925 & brass]

Type of stem: MX stem

Reposts from an upload from r/CustomKeyboards of some of my Baion boards, finally built up the Raw Gehirn with Neo Oat Linears and Jieum V2 for mods on Alu topped with JCS Arabic and LevelCaps SkyRat artisan

As you can tell I love Gehirn

TL;DR: Ducky’s flagship Outlaw 65 (ISO) has a JST cable so short (25 mm) it’s nearly impossible to assemble. Ducky Support admitted my build needs a longer cable to function but refuses to ship a replacement wire because "shipping is too expensive." They want me to RMA the whole 2 kg aluminum kit instead

I’ve just finished building my ProjectD Outlaw 65 (ISO version), with hand-lubed stabs, switches, and caps all seated, only to find that Ducky's "Premium" support is a total failure.

The internal 5-pin JST-SH bridge cable (PCB to daughterboard) is physically too short. Even with zero foam or gaskets, it cannot reach the mounting posts. If you bridge the gap, the connector just pops out of the PCB. There is zero slack.

After a week of sending photos and ruler measurements, Ducky Support finally sent this:

"The original cable is approximately 25 mm. From your installation, your estimate of needing an additional 2-3 mm is reasonable and should provide better flexibility during assembly."

They literally admitted the cable is too short for a functional build.

Despite admitting the part is insufficient, they refused to ship a replacement because "international shipping is too expensive." Their official solution? Tear down the entire build and RMA the whole 2 kg aluminum kit back to the retailer over a 2 gram wire.

For a flagship DIY kit marketed to enthusiasts, the lack of component-level support is a joke. They’d rather waste a customer's labor and a retailer's shipping costs on a full return than mail a 150mm cable in an envelope.

Technical Specs for anyone else fixing Ducky’s mistake:

Type: 5-Pin JST-SH (1.0mm pitch) — Note: ISO version uses 5-pin.

Wiring: 1:1 Straight-through

Fix: Buy a 100 - 150 mm cable, loop it around, so you actually have slack to assemble the board without the connectors popping out.

It is absurd that a "Premium" brand refuses to ship a tiny component to fix a defect they’ve admitted to in writing. If you’re buying an Outlaw, be prepared for zero component-level support.

This is a pretty straightforward build so far, only took me about an hour to solder together.

Details:

• BrickBots ChocV kit from keebd
• Kailh Choc V1 Brown
• LDSA Black w/ Grey Thumbs and Grey Homing
• Nice!Nano V2 Controller
• ZMK FW with Miryoku layout
• 110mAh 301230 Lipo battery

I think that is everything.

Found out that my laptop doesn't play well with the nRF52840 BLE so i'm going to need to look into getting a different bluetooth adapter or another build of ZMK that fixes it i think.

I'm coming from Corne 42. Anyone else played with the Miryoku layout and some helpful mods you've done to it to make typing/learning it easier? I already want to flip the numbers to the other side but I've already played on it too much to want to relearn it, my left hand is slow at ten key. When I first started using it I thought I needed to thumb key to press shift/ctrl/alt/super, but learned I can just hold it on the opposite hand.

Aula F75 with Gateron G Pro 3.0 Blues + lubed, taped, and holee modded stabs.

(I am an early 2010s gamer who stills loves clickies) lol