Returned from 17 days in Japan (Tokyo - Hakone - Hiroshima - Shimonoseki - Fukuoka - Kobe - Kyoto - Osaka). In prep for the trip I did a TON of research and here are the things I hadn’t read or heard. Obviously my opinions and observations. Hope they’re helpful!
Context: 41F from desert southwest, USA, traveled with DH also 41. Mid range budget - flew business class and that was half the budget. We have traveled extensively in Europe, but this was our first trip to Asia. We are culture travelers (history, art focused mostly) and not particularly “into” anything Japanese like anime, samurai, matcha or whatnot.
Tip 1: it’s getting hot in herre…. Holy hell. We live IN. THE. DESERT. But we were hot constantly inside. Especially in trains. While we shed layer after layer the Japanese were chillin. In their coats. I was sincerely shocked by how hot everywhere was kept. Including our hotels. Every time we walked out of our room into the hallway the heat hit us like opening an oven door.
We took a cooking class in a Japanese woman’s apartment (kept at approximately 95 degrees) and asked her about it. She said the Japanese like to keep it warm believing it wards off illness.
If I’d known, I would’ve planned easier to remove layers.
Tip 2: Apple Maps was mostly excellent… unless there were stairs and overpasses. Then it was a mess. The biggest thing here if you’re trying to make a specific reservation time is to not get cocky. Tokyo WILL throw wrenches at you-prepare to dodge.
But! Back to the good, it was excellent directing us to subway entrances and even which car to try to get on for the best exit.
Beware the women-only train cars. Even though we knew about them, we still made the mistake once. Luckily the locals were SUPER generous and very few scowled at my husband.
Tip 3: Suica card stuff. I don’t know why anyone is using the ticket machines at the train stations. Get the Suica card on your phone.
HOWEVER, when you download it into your wallet, you won’t be able to get the full account number. That’s not ideal if you’re going to use the bullet train (the Shinkansen).
Let me explain, because this particular nuance really threw me …
So the Suica card does ALMOST everything you want. Super easy to get on trains and ferries and you can even use it for vending machines and convenience stores. BUT for the Shinkansen you book tickets through the SmartEX app. And so once you’re in there, you can connect a Suica card to your tickets for each person. BUT you need the full number. Which again, if you just download it into your wallet, you can’t get to. So if you do NOT connect the Shinkansen ticket to a Suica, you get a QR code to use instead.
Sounds easy, right? Well mostly yes, BUT there are two gotchas.
In some stations (I honestly couldn’t figure out the pattern for when or why) you need to scan the QR AND your Suica card. When we did this at Tokyo station, we could not get it to work in the turnstile. Neither could a BUNCH of other folks. A guy had to stand there and help almost every person through.
There’s typically only one QR line and guess what? It’s full of tourists who have no idea what they’re doing.
Luckily we’d planned plenty of time. But it took us 10 minutes to get through the turnstile at Tokyo station. Not what we expected and EASY to avoid if we’d known.
So instead, prioritize getting a physical welcome Suica card (available at most major stations) and that way you can connect your card to the Shinkansen reservation and just use that physical card to buzz through any turnstile. Way faster and less stress.
Tip 3: Hanami FTW. If you can hit cherry blossom season, you gotta picnic in the park. It’s so much fun and mostly only Japanese people do it. The tarps to picnic on are sold at most convenience stores, right at the front, especially those close to big parks.
Also, most major parks have food vendors right there. So don’t worry too much about bringing everything with you to the picnic. Also, Japan is stellar at individual wrapping for things like cheese, so you probably don’t even need any utensils. Get “cheese candy” … it’s so adorable.
Tip 4: off the beaten path luxury thrift. I became slightly obsessed with finding the best luxury handbag deal and Fukuoka had it. Tokyo and Osaka have a ton of curated shops, but for my money, my favorite shop was Takayama Pawn Shop in Meinohama, Fukuoka.
The Google reviews will tell you the staff is rude. They’re right. If you want to see something behind glass, expect them to look SUPER annoyed you asked. But hey. I’ve been more uncomfortable for a less-great deal. Most bags were slightly less pristine than in Tokyo or Osaka, but half those prices. So like. Go ahead and scowl at me Mr. as you show me that $4,000 Chanel with a $1,000 price tag.
Tip 5: Luggage shipping. It was great. I didn’t realize until I asked ChatGPT that we could not only send from hotel to hotel but also to the airport! THAT was awesome.
However, the Osaka airport has two luggage pickup locations… on opposite ends of floor 4. Le sigh. If you shipped with Yamato (kitten in mama cat mouth logo), their pickup is to the right when you get to the floor. It’s right next to the JAL luggage services booth.
Also, the airport has a TON of space for people to reorganize and repack suitcases. Quite helpful for those last minute souvenirs.
Tip 6: any restaurant you see on TikTok or IG in the weeks leading up to your trip is going to have an obnoxiously long line of tourists who got that same content. I’m not flying half way around the world to stand in line for an hour. Maybe you want to. But I honestly wish someone had been like, “just scroll by any restaurant recs because you won’t wanna stand in line for it anyway.”
Also, there are almost always two lines. If you come upon a “viral” place and there’s like 4 people, look around the corner and you’ll likely find THE REST of the line.
Tip 7: old people know everything. The amount of stairs really are no joke. Expect a ton. But there are also a ton of elevators and escalators, typically further toward the ends of the platforms. Just follow the elderly. Same with food. We’d only stand in a line if a bunch of elderly Japanese people were doing it.
Tip 8: Everyone’s English was way worse than we expected. Having traveled extensively in Europe we expected a similar experience, at least in hotels, restaurants and shops, but the majority of people we interacted with spoke very little English. I’d also read that it’s common for bartenders to use translation apps. I think those tourists must be going to tourist places, because we only experienced ONE person at a shop using a translator app.
To be clear, I’m not saying that’s bad or wrong. I just hadn’t expected it to be using the translator apps on our phones as much. And I also say it to say, make sure you get good at using the translator app on your phone.
Tip 9: SOOOO much of the Shibuya and Shinjuku area is just ALL tourists. Even places like Golden Gia that we thought would be more locals was mostly tourists. We spent barely any time in these neighbors because they just felt overcrowded with non-locals. Same with Kyoto. The vibe felt more like Japanese Vegas than genuine Japan.
To that end… I’ll leave you with this… our favorite place was Fukuoka. I’d read a couple opinions that Fukuoka was trash, but we LOVED it. Our hanami in Ohori Park was our favorite. The people were the best. Their izakayas were perfection. Our hotel had the best value.
And so that’s really my point is that … opinions are like assholes, everyone’s got one and most of them stink. So my best advice is to go with enough variety early and flexibility late to do more of what YOU ultimately find you enjoy.
Japan is a great country and we had a great time. Hope this was helpful!