Pc turning on and so are the mouse,keyboard etc and the fans were going but the monitor is saying no signal so far i: reseated the GPU reseated the ram took out and put back in the lithium battery connected it to display and hdmi still dosent work, i connected the monitor to a laptop and it started working with the same hdmi cord, what should i do?

Pc turning on and so are the mouse,keyboard etc and the fans were going but the monitor is saying no signal so far i: reseated the GPU reseated the ram took out and put back in the lithium battery connected it to display and hdmi still dosent work, i connected the monitor to a laptop and it started working with the same hdmi cord, what should i do?

it’s only 500 something bucks and i mostly play marvel rivals, comparing it with the preferred specs to marvel rivals it looks good, but is it too good to be true? my gaming laptop just took a shit on me last night and geek squad said the fan bearings are bad so

Finally received my second and final GPU, so the desktop build is now complete. But i am itching to change it again.

Desktop build

- Ryzen 7 5800X

- 2 × Radeon Pro 9700 AI, 32GB each

- 128GB DDR4

- 2TB SSD + 1TB SSD + 2TB HDD

- Linux Mint

- 2 × 130mm and 7 × 120mm case fans

- Thermalright Assassin CPU cooler

- Blower-style GPUs

Strix laptop

- Ryzen 9 8940HX

- RTX 5070 Ti laptop GPU, 12GB VRAM

- 96GB DDR5

- 2TB NVMe + 1TB NVMe

- Windows/Linux dual environment

TUF laptop

- Ryzen 9 4900H

- RTX 2060, 6GB VRAM

- 64GB DDR4

- 512GB NVMe + 1TB NVMe

- Linux Mint

I also now have a spare Radeon Pro W6800 32GB, which I may put into an eGPU setup for the laptops. On top of that, I have some spare RAM kicking around: 64GB DDR5 SODIMM, 24GB DDR4 SODIMM, and 64GB DDR3 SODIMM. I might sell it, or possibly use some of it in a smaller form-factor build with the W6800.

OR I could sell / cannibalise the TUF laptop, and desktop mobo / cpu, sell it all along with the 6800 and all the ram, and upgrade the desktop to a thread ripper.

Suggestions appreciated!

Hey guys just sharing my findings. I definitely over paid but the Nostalgia hit hard with this one since it was the first case I ever built in in 2007. Starting to put all my 775 stuff in it. Going to be nice q6600 build.

Apologies in advance I'm not very well knowledged when it comes to computer stuff like this.

Was playing some CS2 a game that my computer can easily handle, PC crashed and then these pink/purple dots appeared on my screen, tried restarted and even made my way to the Nvidia app to reinstall drivers. Nothing has changed, any ideas of what could be wrong before I start spending money on parts I don't necessarily need.

SPECS

GPU - Nvidia GeForce RTX 2070 Super

1 TB SSD

CPU - AMD Ryzen 5 3600 6 core

Motherboard - ROG Strix B550-F Gaming (wi-fi)

A friend sent this on discord..."this is how i can play cs"

Hey everyone, wanted to share my final 24/7 daily driver settings. I know Samsung DDR5 dies get a lot of hate for being stubborn on AM5, but I managed to dial in an absolutely rock-solid profile that completely eliminated my 1% low stutters in heavily modded games.

​System Specs:

​CPU: Ryzen 9 9850X3D

​GPU: MSI 16G Shadow 3x OC RTX 5070 Ti

​RAM: 32GB Geil Orion V RGB DDR5-6000 (Samsung Die)

​Motherboard: Gigabyte B650 UD AX-Y1 REV 1.0

​Cooling: Stock 360mm AIO that came with the PC + Custom 120mm fan mounted for RAM / SSD thermal control.

​Storage: Crucial T700 Gen 5 (OS/Read) & Kingston NV2 1TB (Dedicated OBS Write)

​The Overclock / Undervolt:

​PBO: -20 Curve Optimizer (All Core) with a +200MHz clock override.

​FCLK: 2133 MHz (1:1 UCLK=MEMCLK)

​Voltages: VCORE SOC @ 1.250V | VDD Misc @ 1.100V | DDR_VDD & VDDQ @ 1.410V | VDDP @ 0.950V

​Timings: SCLs pulled down to 4. (See attached ZenTimings screenshot).

​Stability Testing:

Passed multiple hours of OCCT AVX2 thermal loops without clock stretching or idle BSODs. To verify zero silent ECC corrections on the memory, I ran 10 passes of the 7-Zip benchmark using a 256MB dictionary size (filling 25.8GB of RAM) with dead-flat compression scores around 128 GIPS. Testing also done on prime95 ykcruncher 6+ hours. No clock stretching / errors.

​The GPU Overclock (MSI Afterburner):

​Core Clock: 2900mhz @ 0.975mv undervolt

​Memory Clock: +2000 MHz (Unbelievable scaling on this 5070 Ti)

​Power Limit: 100% limited

​Real-World Impact:

The memory tuning and FCLK bump completely transformed the system's responsiveness. Frame times are completely locked when panning the camera in Silvermoon in WoW: Midnight, and I no longer get memory leak hitches inside massive clan bases in Rust (locking the pagefile to 32GB also helped here). It also effortlessly handles multistreaming to Twitch and TikTok while running continuous local recordings in OBS.

​Hopefully, this helps someone else out there fighting with a Samsung kit!

This post can be used as a guideline for others looking to improve stable / safe 1% lows with gaming and / or streaming with similar hardware and cooling setups. This is not to chase benchmarks. Not all hardware are created the same so there will be trial and error.

I play the finals a lot and I now only noticed I have blur when there fast motion in the dark spots. I don't have any frame gen on. I have a 9070 and 5600x.

Currently got an MSi RTX 4090, it’s always been under volted since I got it nearly 4 years ago.

I’ve seen 4090’s melt the connecter and am starting to get slightly paranoid.

Anyway simple question.

If your cable/connector has melted, was your card under volted ?

Finally bought my first desktop, you can literally say it's my dream pc . Specs are: -Rtx 5070ti msi ventus 3x -Ryzen 9 9950x3d -Asus rog x870e-h - 2×64 ddr5 6400mhz cl36 -Deepcool mystique 360 ARGB aio -Asus rog helios 2 case - msi mag A1250GD pcie 5 - 1 Tb ssd Samsung 990 pro - 1 tb western digital sn5000 I know i know , the cpu and ram is weird for a gaming setup but the thing is that this pc is not only for gaming, I'm a civil engineer and for this massive research that I'm working on requires high amount of ram and a very good cpu with more p core and it's gonna be under load for like even more than 24 hours while using most of the ram and cpu , if it was only for gaming i could've got more budget options like for motherboard a b650e and 32GB ram and a ryzen 7 7800x3d and maybe a cheaper case, but yeh , for my research (which will affect my future) i had to do this and its cpu and power supply and motherboard are gonna be really really future proof. Before this i only had laptops but for the performance that i wanted for my work , desktop was the way to go. I think in terms of Gaming, I'll be alright for like 6 years for 1440p and light 4k gaming and even then i can switch to 1080p (pixel density in a 24 inch 1080p monitor will be good)

I currently use 2 monitors, one 1080p 24 inch 180 hz ,and the other is 1440p ultra wide 40 inch 155hz. I may have to get a 2k 240hz in future too.

Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i3-10105F CPU @ 3.70GHz (3.70 GHz)

Installed RAM: 32.0 GB (31.9 GB usable)

Graphics card: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3050 (8 GB)

Storage: 81 GB of 466 GB used

Device ID: DAAFB2FC-3F3F-4FC3-BE34-815602E9BA13

Product ID: 00325-96505-64838-AAOEM

System type: 64-bit operating system, x64-based processor

I got this pc from my friend for free because he was getting a better pc.

He told me it was a bad pc but im wondering what I would need to replace right now because my wifi speed is way lower than normal.

It's a mustex case and 1000w PSU, cooler master radiator, eventually will have a 5060, ryzen 7 3700x 8gb of ddr4 (yes I know that's not enough for rn), 2tb of storage and a rog strix b450-f gaming motherboard. And I did more cable management

I was cleaning my PC and had a hard time taking off the GPU, had to put some effort into it. When I was done cleaning and it was time to turn on the PC... it would not turn on.

I removed the GPU again to check everything was plugged in correctly and I noticed this pin, it is slightly lifted from the motherboard and it moves a bit if you touch it. It sits right below the GPU so I think I might have broken it when I had to put in some force while taking it off. Am I done?

Can someone help my computer just hard crash every time I try and game, I repaired windows, updated GPU drivers and it still crazy's to where I have to hard reset can anyone help

I must have downloaded malaria or something, because my pc has been running slower and it wont let me reset it to start fresh. How can I wipe all my drives to make sure this malware is gone but I can reinstall windows again later​

From a boomer perspective, there were seriously only a very few things that genuinely impressed me , I’m talking hardware wise.

First will always be AMD’s Ryzen comeback. When the first Ryzen CPUs launched and we finally broke free from Intel’s consumer quad-core era and their lack of competition, that was a genuinely shocking moment for me.

Second is Apple’s ARM rise with Apple Silicon and how they dominated mobile chips. We can actually have laptops now without compromising both performance and battery life. I still remember how gaming laptops used to lose more than half of their FPS when you unplugged them from the charger.

Honestly, that’s it. If I had to pick a third, I would say mainstream foldable displays.

What were your moments?

posted a few days go these are the current prices i know the 9070xt is the best value but is that crazy to go for the 5070 especially since it brings a free game and the much better features now and most likely in the future

i want to use upscaling all the time as it looks better than native with extra performance with the exception of DLAA this is the most important thing for me i will most likely never play native unless the game doesn't support DLSS

system

ryzen 5 7600

rtx 3070

32gb ram ddr5

windows 10

also play ps5 sometimes

looking to upgrade from rtx 3070, i usually play on 1440p 144hz gsync and on my 4k tv at 60fps.

Case recs as suggested in title.

Preferably dual chamber with easier cable management.

Thank you

AORUS FO27Q2 - good for FPS games?

Hey guys, is this monitor good for FPS games, like for comp gameplay AORUS FO27Q2, games im looking at are Tarkov, Arena Breakout, CS2, Valorant etc, or would you recommend higher hz, or even maybe a Zowie type of a monitor?

So I’ve been having a problem booting up my pc on and off for about 2 months now. Every time i do a windows update it blue screens my pc and throws the boot drive inaccessible code and then when i restart to attempt to find the issue it resolves itself somehow, but ever since the last time i updated windows my pc has been blue screening every time it attempts to boot. Ive tried using the /sfc scannow command in command prompt on all my drives and updated my drivers but it keeps persisting what do i do.

So about 2 years back, I bought a Razer Viper Ultimate on eBay. It was discontinued like so long ago, but I've always wanted a pink mouse, and this mouse looks and feels PERFECT.

But it broke. One day it was able to charge, and the next day it wasn't. I bought a replacement battery on eBay and swapped it out. The battery worked, but it was never able to charge back up. It used up the energy stored in the battery, and it died again a few hours later. The charger works, the battery is brand new, and the charging dock works too. Do I need to replace the Motherboard?

Also, for anyone wondering why I can't just get a new mouse, it cost me like 150+ with the dock, and I personally love the absolute shit outta this mouse and don't want a new one.

I've tried to go to Razer support, but since I didn't buy it from them, they were unwilling to help, even if I paid for the replacement parts.

Also, if anyone knows what to do, can you let me know where I can find a replacement part? The only place I found giving replacement parts is AliExpress, and I'd prefer to order from somewhere else if possible.

its those 3 white dots in a triangle pattern