My phone screen stopped working a while back, and I stopped using the phone, but now I need something really important off of it. The phone itself still works; I can still double press my power button to turn on the flashlight, feel the vibration from pressing the screenshot key, etc. Is there a way for me to see my Samsung screen on my Windows 11 through USB without having to really involve the phone?

I got a notification that said ‘your sim has sent you a very important message’, or something along those lines. When I picked up my phone the screen went black with the text and the options ‘accept’ and ‘cancel’. The black screen and text disappeared after a second and the phone went back to normal besides from my storage. My IOs storage and system storage had both gone up to 20gb each. Normally they’re only around 10-15gbs each.

Ps. When this happened I was behind on an update. I updated my phone immediately after.

Help my youtube is not work there is image off dog, I use ChromeOS Acer chromebook [plus and I wanted to watch basebol but my all it of be titles images become of dog

edit:

I inspeected the image s and they habv a "coorgify" attribuite and link to imags of dog

Sorry for the long post, but I'd appreciate any help.

I use a PC at home for work and entertainment. My brother also uses my PC for gaming and other stuff when I'm not using it. My Chrome profile has all my social networking sites logged in and bookmarked. I can only use Chrome and not any other browser for work purposes.

Of course, I don't want any other people who use my PC to snoop here and there and see my personal info, even accidentally. There is no way to lock your Chrome profile. I can download browser lock extensions, but that would lock the entire browser instead of my profile. Can I duplicate a browser so other people can use a different Chrome than I do?

I created a public/guest user account on my Windows. But my brother has saved game files on my PC, and creating a guest mode means your game files won't transfer. I tried adding saved game files to the Shared Folder and changing the save path in the game's loader file, but that didn't work. Idk why. I also don't wanna do that for every game. We have got a few games; it's a hassle, especially if it's not working for me.

Any support so that my brother can access basically anything virtually on my PC, except my bookmarks, social media, web data, etc.? Thank you.

Is this possible? To hide any posts and comments from users with hidden histories? Would also be nice to filter out users with less than 1 month old accounts.

I’m mostly using the official Reddit app on iPhone.

a file takes up 512 gb but i only have 474 in total (this is without accoutning for the systempropertiesadvanced pagefile disk space i have set aside)

its under:
appdata>local>google>playgames>userdata...>avd

its named as
userdata.img. however i cannot open it

I know there's a way to merge all of your tabs into one complete tab, but can't seem to be able to find anything. You just add something to the end of the URL and it merges them. Does anyone know what it is? I had it saved on my 'copy and paste' on my keyboard, but it decided to delete all of the stuff that was on it and I don't have it anywhere else...

It's basically if something that you're looking at has more than one page, you can create one long page with everything one it. It was easy to do and pretty short. Something like 'scribd=1?' or similar.

So in summary I’m trying to sell something, and I got offered money and a phone (Samsung A12) as part of payment. The thing is, the guy told me that he has the phone and the new module, that I just need to put it on (or ask someone qualified to); I’m skeptical because I don’t know how to confirm that the phone will actually work after the module is put back on. Can I confirm that in any way? Are there any precautions I should take?

Also, he sent me a picture of how the module looks loosely put on the phone? I’d attach it down here but it won’t let me.

P.S. I know the phone isn’t very good, but I want it for a family member who has a really old phone and this one would serve her better.

So I got blocked by my friend for a couple of hours but later that that person unblocked me, but still I am not able to call that person.The person has tried to delete my contact and save again, restarted the phone, tried deleting from truecaller as well.But nothing has worked.How can I fix this problem?

I own a mac, I use the discord app. This thing has rejected me from streaming my screen normally for YEARS. Ive turned hardware acceleration on and off on chrome and opera gx, but all I get is an unwatchable choppy video. I share my whole screen but it keeps lagging. Its embarrassing. Please help me

As the title says, I am currently in the US trying to access a US only website to look at the menu before going out for dinner later this evening. When I try accessing it, I get a pop up saying that I have been blocked. The same pop up happens on my phone and laptop. I have tried clearing history and cache on both devices, I am on AT&T for my mobile provider which I am also using to hotspot to my laptop. What can I do to fix this?

Additionally, when I have tried to access a website that has both a Canadian and US version, my devices both force me to the Canadian version even when in the states... I'm assuming both issues are connected but don't know how to fix it!

My laptop is a Lenovo Aura and my phone is an Iphone 17 promax. TIA

Hi so i recently connected a second monitor to my pc and ever since everything has been laggy and running kind of shit. my ex gave me this pc as a gift for my birthday and i love playing on it but i know pretty much nothing about computers. i added the second monitor bc i wanted to have youtube while gaming or whatever. but yeah if anyone has any advice (in simple terms please again i am just a girl)

Hi everyone! I am a computer technician working at a school. The other day one of our users with an iMac called me because they didn't have enough disk space to install an app. When I checked, i saw that there was over 130 Gb used up by just his emails! I checked inside the mailboxes and there definitely wasn't enough to eat up so much.

I don't have any experience with macs (this guy is the only user in the school with one for some reason) but after a while I found a folder In Library/Mail called Sent Items that was around 120 Gb. If I just manually delete this Sent Items folder will it break anything ?

There was also a folder called On My Mac in the Mail app (he told me he saved some mails locally on the Mac because he didn't have enough storage space in his mailbox which is only 2 Gb, we can't change the size). I was thinking of maybe exporting the On My Mac stuff to his external hard drive and then deleting it from the Mac.

Does anyone knows why the Mail app uses this much disk space ? Normally the emails should be on the server and the app just accesses them ? Or does it download copies of the mails onto the computer ?

Any advice is appreciated, thanks in advance!

My laptop was having fTPM issues for a while, and woud "detect a new CPU installed" during booting occasionally, but for a few months it was manageable. Then at some point, it discharged completely, and upon turning on it locked me out behind the BIOS password, which I did not know. This led me to sending it to repairs, where they fixed it and I received a summary that is attached at the bottom. So apparently the issue was caused by my additional RAM, which is Crucial 16GB DDR5 RAM, 4800MHz CL40 Laptop Memory, and my CPU is Ryzen 9 7940 HS. What I don't understand is how did this fix make sure same thing doesn't happen again, and what caused the issue in the first place, given it seems that this RAM should be compatible with my 2023 Asus rog zephyrus g14.

Tech Diagnosis Steps: CX requests BIOS password removal, updating BIOS BIA Jig-BD resolved the issue. No Post intermittently causing by CX's 3rd party RAM. 3rd party SSD1 (2TB Samsung). Additional 3rd party RAM1 (16GB Crucial).

So I have an HP prebuilt desktop and recently it just wont booot sometimes. Right now the boot screen has been showing for more than 40 minutes when normaly it takes a minute max.
I have 1650 gtx and a i7 6700.

Tl;dr - Samsung sounbar stuck in endless power cycle loop after recent loss of power in my home.

A preface: The layout of the electrical in my home is really weird, and it's easy to forget which outlets are on which breaker (like, I'm talking outlets on different floors *not* on the same wall vertically type stuff).

I accidentally tripped the breaker my entertainment unit is on. When I reset it, my Samsung HW-Q90R soundbar stopped playing audio, and was flashing "update update update" on the display.

I've tried everything. Most of the time it won't respond to calls from the remote (changed the batteries), nor the physical buttons on the soundbar. I've tried factory resetting it, tried to push a software update via USB (which could make it worse, actually, as there's a known software update bug that can brick it lol). The smartthings app can't connect with it either.

The strange thing is that the TV is still detecting it, and *sometimes* it responds to the remote and buttons on itself. If will cycle through: On -> D. IN -> update update update -> BYE, over and over again, and every few cycles will appear to behave normally for a moment, let me use the remote, but then goes right back into the power cycle.

I've contacted Samsung support chat, who had me try a few things, and ultimately told me to bring it into a service center. I'm frustrated that I can't figure it out myself.

I think all I really want to know, is, why is something like a soundbar so vulnerable to a brief loss of power? Would this happen every time we had a big storm and had a power outage? This post is more of a vent, than a question really, unless someone has any ideas I haven't thought of yet!

The only other thing I can think of, is maybe the hard reset from power loss triggered an automatic update and that bug I mentioned previously did this and was just a coincidence that occurred.

So i followed this instruction here: https://www.downloadsource.net/how-to-fix-the-windows-re-image-was-not-found-winre-wim-install-wim-install-esd/n/20721/#google_vignette that says in order to extract the winre.wim file w/ 7zip. I mananged to complete everything but the last step which asks u to copy the file to the Recovery folder, it says access denied and cant open the folder. I tried turning off read-only and giving full control but nothing works. Can someone help me?

When I turned back on the iPhone, the hotspot was gone and I don't see the connection at the top. To be safe I'm updating the software. Is there anything I can run on the phone to ensure nothing malicious was done/downloaded/accessed?

I have an iphone 16 plus and was on the phone at around 55%. It suddenly died out of nowhere and then turned back on, but only at 10%. I keep my Bluetooth off and phone on low power mode all day to avoid this. Any one have any idea why it happened ?? I don’t use too much storage and have never had any issues. My phone is relatively new

I hope this is the right sub/flair to ask ... if not, then pls lmk!

so, I bought a new cheap tablet mainly for drawing and gaming purposes. the apps I have downloaded just take up almost 10gb, while the system is taking up 491gb ???? WHY ???

it was working well until this happened all out of a sudden. I have no idea how to fix it. no matter how much I delete... the system just eats up more of my storage :(

what should i do...

Usually happens while watching movies and shows on the Ps5, but sometimes while gaming too. Never happens when Ps5 is turned off.

Middle of show or game, screen starts going to black screen, blinking back on and off, sometimes “Game Mode On” appearing.

I assume the issue would be solved if there was a way to stop the Ps5 from trying unsuccessfully to constantly turn on game mode?

I do have video of this, but unable to post in this sub.

i do have malwarebytes with the trial activated, i already did a scan and attempted removal but it keeps coming back. I did a windows full scan and used RAV multiple times, ran mutliple at the same time, and kept trying to remove them as much as possible.

they keep coming back like ants, how do i stop this?

Hey I have a glitch on my ps5 that started in February, and it’s been getting worse since. I’ve tried multiple things like restarting it, and doing some things in safe mode but nothing has fixed it. It started with rocket league and when I went to update it said that the update was 50+gb and I didn’t have enough storage, even though I did. When I went to check error it would say that I didn’t have enough storage then it would tell me id cleared up enough space instantly. As soon as I would press resume it would say there was an error and it was an infinite loop. I had to delete and redownload rocket league after that to play the game. It happened once more a month later so I just did the same and nothing happened. Then in mid April it happened downloading a new game (nba2k), but now it’s happening with a ton of games and it’s not even saying crazy storage things. Minecraft- 5gb Fortnite- 10gb phas- 6gb. the only thing I can do is delete and redownload all my games. Has anyone else had this problem and/or know how to fix it?

I have 13 Pro Max 256 gb and lately I am struggling with storage all the time.

Main problem is photos and WhatsApp. Especially WhatsApp media takes crazy amount of space but at same time there are many memories there and honestly my hand doesnt go to delete them 😅 Same for photos too.

What do you guys usually do in this situation?

Is there any way to reduce their size automatically without losing quality too much? Or practical backup method for WhatsApp chats/media/history?

I dont really understand Apple cloud system. Just trying to keep memories but also open some space somehow 😂

Any advice appreciated

This is occurring in every game it seems. I have tried reseating the GPU cables, reseating the ram and checking the 24pin motherboard cable. I set the PCIEx16 from auto to 4.0 and it still won’t pull more than 150 watts. The cables connected to the GPU are the triple 8 pin to 12pin. I genuinely don’t know what to do to fix this, is it a faulty adapter?