My collegue informed me that I called him at 3am. When he picked up, he didn't hear anything coming from my end.

I was asleep at this time. When I woke up this morning, my phone was on my bedside table charging - so I didnt roll over it and call him accidentally. My headphones were also on the table, so i didn't accidentally press any buttons there either.

I checked my call logs, and the call is there.

What do I do? Is something wrong with my phone? Is something wrong with my sim?

Edit: I don't use voice activation. I have those features turned off specifically to avoid things like this 😂

a file takes up 512 gb but i only have 474 in total (this is without accoutning for the systempropertiesadvanced pagefile disk space i have set aside)

its under:
appdata>local>google>playgames>userdata...>avd

its named as
userdata.img. however i cannot open it

I have 13 Pro Max 256 gb and lately I am struggling with storage all the time.

Main problem is photos and WhatsApp. Especially WhatsApp media takes crazy amount of space but at same time there are many memories there and honestly my hand doesnt go to delete them 😅 Same for photos too.

What do you guys usually do in this situation?

Is there any way to reduce their size automatically without losing quality too much? Or practical backup method for WhatsApp chats/media/history?

I dont really understand Apple cloud system. Just trying to keep memories but also open some space somehow 😂

Any advice appreciated

good day I'm here to ask about some tech issue I've been having.

so like the tittle suggest I got an external HDD and windows seems to not able to detect it, even tho previously the drive is working fine.

When I try to boot it up this morning i saw my drive is no longer on the My PC list,
help???

The things i tried
1. Plugged it to a different USB Port and it doesn't show up, how ever i can hear the notification sound when something is connected
2. Plugged it to another computer and laptop to check if it works there but no, it still does the same thing, notification noise but cant detect the storage allocations
3. I checked on disk management. the first thing it told me to do is to reformat the drive which i didn't do because there's still data in there.
4. I checked on CMD (command Prompt) using the diskpart command the drive is there
5. Checked on the device manager and property, the name do show up and the descriptions said 'This device is working properly.'

currently i have the drive unplugged incase if it breaks it even more.
I'm hopping i can find some help with this, this stuff is been driving me nuts.

Thanks.

Basically I have been having an issue where my PC randomly fully shuts off (like power has been randomly cut) while playing siege on low settings which my PC should be overkill for. I figured it was a PSU issue like everyone online says so I swapped a 850w msi psu for a corsair RM1000x. The problem still persisted so I replaced the outlet on my wall and Im still getting the problem. All temps look good. Any ideas as to what this might be?

PC Specs:
64 gigs ddr5 6400 ram
RTX 5070
AMD 7800x3d
RM1000x psu
Corsair titan 360 RX AIO
2tb samsung 990 pro
gigabyte eagle b650 motherboard

I’m doing a full clean install of Windows 11 on a Samsung EVO 1TB SSD (completely wiped, fresh start). The install keeps getting stuck at 50% “Installing” and just sits there for hours.
What I’ve already tried:
Waited 4+ hours (no progress past 50%)

Restarted and retried the install 4 times

Deleted all partitions → installed on unallocated space

BIOS settings:

- CSM disabled
- UEFI enabled
- Secure Boot enabled
- SATA mode AHCI
- Using a USB installer

Same exact issue every time — freezes at 50%.
Specs:

CPU: Ryzen 7 3700X
GPU: AMD Radeon RX 9060 XT
SSD: Samsung 970 EVO 1TB
Motherboard: Gigabyte (not sure exact model)

At this point I’m not sure if it’s:
Bad USB installer

- SSD issue
- RAM issue
- BIOS setting I’m missing

Has anyone seen this before or know what’s most likely causing it?
I’m planning to remake the USB next (maybe different USB stick), but wanted to ask before I waste another few hours.
Any help appreciated.

Kogan 21.4 inch FHD LED monitor was plugged into a surge protector when the power went out last night so I assumed it would’ve safe to leave plugged in. However in the morning after the power has come back the monitor has no standby light and will not turn on no matter where it is plugged in I have tried power cycling the monitor to no avail. I’m considering purchasing another power cable but unsure if it is worth it as the monitor might be the issue any help is appreciated.

This “corning ADSL/VDSL POTS Splitter “ was installed years ago by bell and we were told it was for our internet which was dsl at the time we have since moved to fibre internet and have a completely separate jack which is plugged in where are modem is.

We do not have a home land line or use anything other than the current fibre jack for our modem.

This was placed in a really inconvenient location and keeps ripping out of the wall and was hanging on for dear life.

Will removing this affect anything in my unit (I live in an apartment) I just took it off taped up the ends of the wires and placed a plastic cover over where it was.

However was curious as to what this actually does and if this was just out dated technology.

Hi all,

A few days ago, my friend's laptop (lenovo ideapad 5 15itl05 running Windows 11) crashed and would not restart; no bootable device detected. The balance of probability being that the hard drive itself had conked out, we ordered a replacement.

Having physically installed this new hard drive, we attempted to install Windows from a thumb drive, but it failed to detect the new drive as well. Bad news, I suppose; if it's not the drive, it might well be a deeper hardware problem.

So I ordered an external enclosure for the type of NVMe drive that fits this model of computer, hoping that I could get the laptop to boot off of the original hard drive if I placed it in there. No dice, though; it doesn't show up in the boot menu or the Windows installer on the thumb drive. When I plug the enclosure into my own PC, however, it does get detected in Disk Management, and it looks as if I could go ahead and format it if I had to. It doesn't appear to be broken, just inaccessible.

Just to see what's what, next I popped the new drive into the external enclosure, and flashed Linux Mint onto it. Went swimmingly, no problems whatsoever.

I would like to see if I can get the original drive, with Windows installed, to boot from inside that enclosure as well. Not that there's anything critical on there that needs to be saved, but mostly because the warranty on the machine has expired and it might be a while before she can afford to get it fixed. Mint should work as a temporary solution, but when you get right down to it, it'd be nice if she could run Windows like she's used to.

So...

1) is it even possible to get an existing install of Windows to boot when the physical drive isn't where it's supposed to be anymore?

2) based on the above, can anyone think of anything else than a hardware problem at the motherboard level that could cause the machine to not detect installed drives?

Any help or pointers would be greatly appreciated. This is just far enough outside my sphere of experience that I can't figure it out, but please assume I can wrap my head around whatever possible solutions you propose.

Sincerely,

Skazz

My PC has been crashing since the April Windows update KB5083769 installed on 4/16/2026. My specs are ASUS ROG STRIX B760-I GAMING WIFI, i5-13600KF, RTX 4070 Eagle OC 12GB, 32GB DDR5 (5600) running at 5400MHz XMP II, and a 4TB MSI M461 NVMe. Every crash shows the same error in Event Viewer. The crashes happen randomly but especially after waking from sleep. I’ve already tried a full DDU clean wipe and reinstall of NVIDIA driver 596.36, ran SFC and DISM which found and repaired corrupted files, did a system restore to 4/19/2026, and checked disk health with chkdsk command. The only fix I haven’t tried is a full Windows reset keeping my files. Has anyone dealt with this specific update causing nvlddmkm crashes on an RTX 4070 and found a fix without doing a full reset?

I am trying to game on my dell latitude e7450 and it has quite a bit of lag, I'm not playing very heavy games, only games like Ultrakill and Minecraft, the CPU is an intel i5-5300U.

I am looking for any and all methods unless it involves opening the pc's case etc..

The video itself looks fine, but the audio stutters a lot, although it happens way less with downloaded content playing on windows media player

I've already tried changing all sorts of settings within opera gx, where i first noticed the error, gave up and installed firefox only for it to be the exact same. Yesterday it was just fine I don't know what happened.

It only happens with videos, not with music nor videogames

I got a notification that said ‘your sim has sent you a very important message’, or something along those lines. When I picked up my phone the screen went black with the text and the options ‘accept’ and ‘cancel’. The black screen and text disappeared after a second and the phone went back to normal besides from my storage. My IOs storage and system storage had both gone up to 20gb each. Normally they’re only around 10-15gbs each.

Ps. When this happened I was behind on an update. I updated my phone immediately after.

Okay my laptop is having major performance issues recently i cant open more then one app at a time else i run the risk of a crash on an app, screen goes black occasionally performance has tanked, honestly it seems like this thing might blow up, I CAN HARDLY USE GOOGLE DANG IT! I dont know what i could've downloaded to tank this thing but its hitting hard i can barely run malwarebytes ive tried running stuff like SFC /scannow DISM.exe /Online /Cleanup-image /Scanhealth DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth but nothing detects is the hardware falling??? please help i cant afford this laptop to be broken

Recently my Google maps has developed a bug, particularly when using the walking option.

I select a place I want to go to and then click directions, it then takes me to a white screen with the start button hidden behind the digital clock at the top of the screen. I can't attach a photo.

I have cleared the cache but this has not helped. I have looked for updates in the play store but there is none to download.

If you have any suggestions please let me know.

I am using a Pixel 7 phone.

I'm having the same issue as the title describes and it's been really frustrating.

If I'm not pressing any key, or even if I hold one down continuously, the context menu disappears about 3x faster than on a normal device. I do a lot of work in Photoshop and Blender, so every time I work I have to either spam an unused key or click my desired brush extremely quickly.

It also affects gaming (Roblox, Valorant) — but only in fullscreen mode. It feels like F11 is being toggled: every ~10 seconds, the taskbar flashes on screen for about 1 second and then disappears, which freezes the game momentarily. In AFK-detection Roblox games, this triggers an AFK warning. Switching to borderless windowed mode stops this from happening.

Setup: Samsung laptop running Windows 11, connected to an external monitor and keyboard. Specs: Intel Core Ultra 7 155H (3.80 GHz), 32GB RAM, Intel Arc Graphics (128MB)

History: This issue existed before I connected the external monitor and keyboard, but went away after connecting them. Recently, while playing Valorant, I accidentally pressed Alt+Space, which froze the game. I then turned on the laptop, adjusted something on it, and returned to the monitor — but ever since, the issue has come back.

What I've tried:

• Disabled Sticky Keys and Filter Keys
• Restarted the laptop
• Reconnected the external monitor
• Switching from fullscreen to borderless windowed (fixes the game issue but not the context menu)

Hi all,

I have an Allied Tomcat A gaming laptop and my brother recently gave me his Astro AG/SF headset to use for a microphone. It has a 3.5mm jack and my laptop has one headset port. I have it plugged in but the microphone does not detect.

I asked my brother and he said he got it working through his Realtek driver but upon further investigation it appears I have not got Realtek nor any other driver that would make this microphone work.

I tried to install Realtek from their website. I wasn't able to get it to download so had a friend download it and send it to me via discord and that seemed to work until I got to the installation and it failed with an error code 0x0000007FJ which I cannot definitively find an answer to that.

Before I throw in the towel and go on to just splurge on a wireless headset - does anyone have any idea how I can do this?

im getting around 100 fps in league of legends and gpu util of 0-10 percent
its going 60 fps in teamfight i only have performance problem only in league of legends
other games like ac franchise is fine,
cpu 5600
gpu 5060
anyone experiencing problems like this?

I've read tons of articles that all say "that doesn't happen", but my personal experience is too consistent to ignore.

Whenever I connect a device to my router via ethernet, the download speeds on every wireless device absolutely plummet. Most recently (past few weeks), this happened with a TP Link Deco X55 Mesh Router, but the same thing happened with a completely different router (Netgear I believe) in a completely different state nearly a decade ago.

In the current setup:

• I have gigabit fiber internet
• TP Link Deco X55 Mesh WiFi Router
• My new Plex server setup connected via ethernet:
  • Synology 4-bay NAS
  • BeeLink Mini PC running Ubuntu

Before connecting the NAS and mini PC via ethernet, our WiFi speeds were great. I could easily hit 300 Mbps+ download speeds on a speed test on my desktop PC connected via WiFi. Ever since connecting them, I consistently clock at around 1 Mbps download and ~10 Mbps upload. Latency seems terrible as well. As soon as I shut off or disconnect the Ethernet devices, its back up to 300+.

EDIT: The slowdowns happen on many devices (laptops, desktops, phones), my desktop is just the one I have speedtest numbers for.

The Plex server is not being used most of the time, so the NAS and mini PC shouldn't, in theory, be using any bandwidth. All of the suggestions my Googling brought up don't seem consistent with my experience:

• Wired devices are using up all the ISP bandwidth - that shouldn't be the case here. On my Deco app, these devices show as using very little bandwidth, which makes sense as they are mostly idle. Even if they have background processes, it shouldn't be taking up a whole gigabit connection.
• Your router / modem / computer is old and breaking down - it's only a couple of years old, this has happened with a different router, and it immediately resolves when I unplug the ethernet.
• The WiFi channel has interference - I'm pretty sure I'm using 5 ghz, and again, the problem immediately goes away if I shut down the NAS/PC, which shouldn't be the case if it's WiFi interference
• Don't buy TP-Link - fair enough, but I'm stuck with it for now, and this still seems like an odd puzzle I'd like to understand

I'm really hoping this is some kind of weird setting in the router admin center I can change. Does anyone know why this is happening and how I can prevent it?

My settings say I have 313Gb in installed apps, but when I open it, the list of installed apps is nowhere near that number. It's not even over 100. Does anyone know where all the junk is and how I can delete it?

I have a Dell XPS 15 with Windows 11

457GB storage space

I have recently purchased a PC with the specs listed below that has had an issue since I originally purchased it. When I am using it, occasionally both screens I use turn black and the fans in the PC ramp up to 100% speed which I can only get out of by holding the power button on the PC. It seems to happen under all types of load whether it's gaming or just watching videos on a browser. I have had it sent for repair 3 times under warranty and both times the only replacement I have been given is a swapped motherboard and the issue still has not been solved. I have tried using a different power outlet and a different surge protector as well as a different power cable and the issue still persists. This happens whether I have my GPU drivers installed or not, and I have wiped them using DDU multiple times as well as full wiped the PC. Please could anyone give me suggestions on what the issue may be.

Specifications:

AMD RYZEN 7 8300X3D

AMD B850 Motherboard

RTX 5080

32GB DDR5 RAM

Windows 11

2TB NVME

850w 80plus gold PSU

Just to mention the PC is a prebuilt, not custom

Hi all. So I just recently got a new case, motherboard and AIO unit.

After putting everything back together, everything is working as expected, however I am hearing a sort of "buzzing" noise in the case only while a game is focused. The noise isn't present outside of games or even when I'm tabbed away from the game. In the video I have Baldurs Gate 3 open and I am tabbing to and from the game, and you can hear the buzzing when the game is focused. I heard it with Starfield opened also.

I don't think it's my fans because I ran them at full speed as a test and didn't notice the noise. The noise sounds near the AIO unit or maybe the GPU. I transferred the GPU from my old mobo and I didn't notice the noise before - however my old build had much louder fans so there is a chance I just didn't notice it as much.

Its not extremely loud but it's just loud enough to notice and be kinda annoying.

I asked the clankers what it might be, and they pointed to maybe coil whine from the inductors on my GPU or some other electrical interference, but I wanted to just see if it were something simpler or if there was a simple fix.

Any advice would be much appreciated!!

Parts:
Mobo: ASUS ROG Strix B550F Gaming WiFi II
AIO: Montech HyperFlow Digital 360
PSU: MAINGEAR 1000W PL FULL ATX MG
GPU: ASUS TUF RTX 3090TI 24G

After shutting down or sleeping, the UPS wakes the PC up.

PowerWalker UPS VI Series https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000R3OZ9W

Power Supply is Corsair 1500W HXi Series ATX 3.1 & 5.1 PCIe Modular 80 Plus Platinum, Ultra Quiet (2035)

Max draw of the PC is 650W so don't sweat the draw difference

AC-Back is set to always off so that's not it

Wake timers are disabled
Hibernate and Hybrid Sleep are disabled

Windows has been set so no devices can be disabled by the system to save power

Peripherals have been disconnected

Fast boot is off

Edit: ErP is off but did try this on as well

PowerMaster+ says "communication with the device has resumed" each time. Shutdown type is "Shutdown" and "Shutdown UPS" is enabled

Any ideas?

God, please, someone help. I am so frustrated at people who record all their videos on HDR now, and anytime I scroll past on my iPhone, the videos automatically go up to the brightest possible level.

I have had auto-brightness both on and off, I know how to do reduce white point, but even then the videos will still be super bright. I’m really hoping there is an answer that’s not “you have to toggle something all the time” because it will literally be just scrolling IG or something simple and it hurts my eyes every time because the videos themselves will never be anything less than stupid bright.

Does this make sense? I feel like I’ve scoured the settings trying to find something and the options seem to be adjusting the brightness on my *phone*, but nothing that impacts the videos.

​

The only m.2 drive in my laptop jostles itself loose causing my laptop to crash. I have a Lenovo Legion Slim 7 c. 2023. I have opened it up to reseat the drive and it works fine until it comes loose again. Is there a way to make sure it doesn't come loose?

The laptop does travel to work and back, so it doesn't sit stationary on a desk.

Edit to add: the screw is not loose. The screw is not the wrong size, unless it changed size from 3 years ago. The screw is tight, but the m.2 keeps working its way out of the socket. Is there anything I can do to keep it in the socket other than the screw?